The short answer
Fold the jacket in half vertically, sleeve on sleeve. Turn one shoulder inside-out and slide the other into it, so the lining faces outward and the two shoulders nest. Smooth the sleeves down the body, then fold once across the waist. The reason this works is structural rather than clever: a tailored jacket has a stiff canvas interlining through the chest and shoulders, and it is the only part of the garment built to hold a shape under pressure. Nesting the shoulders puts that canvas on the outside of the fold. Anywhere the outer cloth folds without canvas behind it, you get a crease that has to be steamed out — and on a lapel or a shoulder seam, one that may need pressing on shaped equipment instead. Aim for one fold across the waist and no more — a second halves again what a hanger can recover overnight. The whole fold takes about thirty seconds.
The fold, step by step
Do this on a bed or table, not inside the open suitcase. You need to see the shoulders line up, and you cannot do that in a case.
- Button the jacket. It keeps the front from twisting while you work.
- Lay it face down and fold it down the centre line of the back, bringing sleeve onto sleeve.
- Slide your hand into the top shoulder and turn it inside-out around your fist, making a lining pocket.
- Tuck the other shoulder into that pocket so the two nest. The lining is now the outer surface.
- Run your palm down the sleeves to flatten them against the body — never fold a sleeve on its own.
- Fold once across the waist, below the chest canvas and below any lapel roll.
Three folds that leave marks you cannot steam out
Folding across the lapel is the worst of them: the lapel is rolled and pressed to a soft curve by the tailor, and a hard fold across it flattens the roll in a way that steam does not restore. Folding a sleeve at the elbow is second, because the crease lands exactly where the arm bends and reads as wear rather than packing. Third is folding with something rigid inside a pocket — a phone, keys, a passport wallet — which presses an outline into the cloth from the inside and takes far longer to release than a plain fold. Empty every pocket before folding, including the inside ones you have not used since the last trip.
Does the inside-out fold actually protect the cloth?
Partly, and not for the reason usually given. The common claim is that turning the jacket inside-out protects the outer fabric from dirt, which is true but marginal in a closed suitcase. The real benefit is that the lining is a slippery, lightweight cloth that tolerates being folded and creased without showing it, while the face cloth is not. Putting the lining on the outside of the fold means the visible surface is the one that recovers. It also holds the shape together in transit — a nested jacket stays folded, where a loosely folded one works itself open and then creases wherever it happens to land.
How long before the fold falls out?
Hang a folded wool jacket on a broad hanger and most fold lines are gone within two to four hours in normal room conditions, faster in humid air, which is one of the few ways Bangkok's climate works in your favour. Overnight is enough for almost anything. If a line is still visible after a night on a hanger, it has been set — usually by weight in the case or by heat somewhere along the way — and steaming is the next step rather than more waiting. What you should not do is reach for the room's iron. Worsted wool goes permanently shiny where an iron plate touches it. See our full guide to suit and shirt cleaning for what pressing on shaped equipment does that a hanger cannot.
